N193RV Final Assembly Page 2

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	N193RV Final Assembly Page 2
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The Final Assembly Continues I hope that you don't mind if these pictures load a little slow. I wanted to get some good quality photos on here. They say that a picture is worth a thousand words. I've searched the internet high and low for some good pictures but they are hard to find.
	TA DA!!!!! The Baffles Are Done Let me tell you that this was a piece of sheet metal work that a person will remember for a long time. YIKES!!!!!!
This Is DE Hole Here's another important tip for those of you who plan on using fixed pitch props. When converting from a constant speed set up to fixed pitch you must punch a hole in the aft crankshaft plug. 1/8" to 3/16' should do it. DO NOT DRILL THIS HOLE. I took a piece of 3/16" drill rod, sharpened it to a point and gave it a couple smacks with a hammer and wella, perfect 3/16" hole. An easy way to remove the front plug is to punch a hole in it and run a 1/4-28 tap through the hole. Take a piece of 1/8" aluminum and drill a 1/4" hole in the center. Then get a 1/4-28 allen head bolt and you have a cheap plug puller. Just turn the bolt in and the plug will slide right out of there. Be sure to clean out any chips that you make and be prepared for an oil slick. When I pulled my plug I forgot that the crank was full of oil and it ran all over my nice clean floor. Now that this is done replace the front plug with a new one, remove the oil line that goes to the govenor adapter, and go ahead and remove the govenor adapter while you're at it. You can purchase a cover plate from van. Install the plate and you're done. Lycoming says that all this requires a Data Plate Update but I'm just going to stop here. Good Luck
	Right Baffle Floor Okay, now it's my turn to ask a question. You notice in the picture that there is a 3/8" gap between the baffle and the cowl. This is how Van tells you to do it. A piece of airseal fabric goes under the cowl lip and over the baffle floor. My question is how do you install the cowl? I have a 3/16" to 1/4" gap between the spinner and cowl. The only way that I can figure to get the cowl in place is to tape the airseal fabric back, install the cowl, then remove the tape. Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.
Gascolator and Fuel Flow Turbine This is how I mounted my gascolator and fuel flow turbine. Notice the brackets on both sides. Never hang these things by their fittings. You will only invite problems later. The 1/8" line is SS tubing for the primer system. I hung the drain as far away from the exhaust as I could. It drains through a hole in the bottom of the cowling. Also notice those little jet nuts. MS21042 nuts. These are much better than the AN363 nuts. Never use AN 365 fiber stop nuts fwf.
	Braided Hoses and Lines There's a lot going on in this picture. There are many do it yourself braided hose assemblies out there that you can make up yourself. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT use Aeroquip 601 Hose. Due to the additives in today's fuel this stuff will self destruct in a matter of months. Believe me it happened to me. Thank goodness my airplane was in the hangar when I discovered it. The replacement is 701 hose. This stuff will last forever and it is very easy to work with. Remember to always cover all fuel and oil lines with firesleve. If you do not feel comfortable making these hoses please hire someone to make them for you. Today you can buy them pre made from Van. Always clean them out and have them pressure tested before use. This is only one example of hose that you can use. I really believe that today the teflon lined hoses are the way to go. A bit pricy but worth every penny. I'd like to add one more bit of information here. Notice the fitting on the fuel pump. These are special fittings that have to be used. AN fittings will not work on fuel pumps. These fittings seal with an o-ring. There is a thread relief cut into the fitting where the o-ring goes. Behind this o-ring you will find a washer and a nut. To install this fitting first put some Lubriplate on the o-ring then thread the fitting into the fuel pump by hand until the o-ring bottoms out on the flat of the fuel pump. Clock the fitting where you think that it should go then tighten the nut. That's it. These fittings can be purchased from Van or Spruce. You can get them straight, 90 degree, or with a 1/8" NPT for a fuel pressure pickup location. Okay, one more thing. We do not use Teflon Tape on airplane fittings. Buy some Fuel Lube. You can get this from Spruce. A spoon full of this stuff will do an entire airplane.
Right Front Firewall This picture shows that I made a custom manifold for my oil pressure and hobbs sensors and hung my fuel pressure sensor from a bracket. The manifolds can be purchased from Van. Note the breather tube and the rubber hose is the oil drain tube that comes out of the breather and goes into a catch jar. Also note that the oil seperator breather assembly that comes from Spruce has 5/8" fittings and my engine has a 3/4" breather tube. I cut off the original fittings and welded on new 3/4" fittings. The line at the top of the picture is the manifold pressure line that goes to the gage in the cockpit. Just a note about tie wraps in the engine compartment. Don't use them. For one thing they will deteriate in time and they are abrasive. If you tie anything to for example an engine mount tube in time the engine mount tube will wear faster than the tie wrap. If you must use tie wraps please protect the tube with something like Tygon Tubing. The tie wraps that you see in the picture came from Lycoming. They will be replaced soon with some lacing.
	SCAT TUBING Let's take a minute and talk about Scat Tubing. This is the stuff that we use for cabin ventilation, carb heat, etc. The material is made from a silicon impregnated fabric and has a stiff wire spiraled around the inside and a chord around the outside. 2" diameter is used for cabin air and cabin heat. You are going to find out that this material is very hard to install over the tube on a heat muff or a cabin heat box. You cannot put a 2" diameter hose over a 2" diameter tube. Most of the time anyway. The proper way to install this stuff is to remove the wire from the inside where it contacts the tube that you are installing it over. Go ahead and just pull the wire out and cut it off. Now take a pair of needle nose and bend a hook on the end of the wire and push it back into the scat tubing. Install the tubing and secure it with a hose clamp. It's very important that this stuff doesn't rub against anything inside the cowl. If it does it will wear right through in no time. Take your time when installing this stuff and do whatever it takes to prevent chaffing. Some people run a bead of high temperature silicon along the entire length of this tubing. The reason for this is that if the chord wears through it will stop at the silicon and not come all the way off. If your tubing doesn't rub anywhere then it's not going to wear through, Right?
FWF Electrical I'm not going to say much about the wiring just the important stuff. The pictures to the right are there to show everyone what a heavy duty crimper looks like. Don't go run out and buy one because they are expensive and you can probably hire someone to crimp your wires. There aren't that many of the big wires to do anyway. This crimper will handle 2,4,6,and 8 wires. There is a dial with three settings. You start with the small one and work your way up. After the lug is crimped on take a wire marker set and mark your wire then cover it with a piece of clear heat shrink. Piece of cake.... If you want to learn about aircraft wiring go to AeroElectric Connection web site. Everything you need to know is on this web site. I will add more pictures and text as I move along.
	Current Limiter How many times have you looked at an aircraft breaker panel and seen the first two breakers are ALT and Field? If that alt breaker ever pops you have serious problems that are not going to go away by trying to push it back in. Why put that noisy wire in the cockpit in the first place. Notice the current limiter in the picture. Out on the firewall wired directly to the upstream side of the starter relay. Makes sense to me so I am trying it. This wasn't my idea. This is something that is taught by the AeroElectric Connection. Try to keep those noisy wires out of the cockpit.
Heat Shields I just received these heat shields form Van the other day. I got this little 4 X 4 box in the mail and wondered what the heck that was. I bought two of them. I really thought that they were much longer that this. Boy was I surprised. These guys are only three inches long. Glad that I bought two of them. Anyway, you can see in the picture how close the fuel line is from the exhaust. These things just clamp to the pipe and provide an airspace between the line and exhaust. Make sure to use firesleve also. Also note in the picture that I am using an aluminum fitting on the carb. WRONG!!!! This fitting will be replaced with a steel fitting next week.